Indonesia, particularly Central and East Java, is known as
an archaeological tourism hub with its many ancient sites and temples.
Borobudur, Prambanan, Dieng, Penataran, Sewu, and a host of
other world-renowned stone temples are located there. Each of them offers
exoticism that has fascinated travelers.
But there are a myriad of lesser-known temples that offer
visitors an alternative to the tourist-packed landmarks.
Selogriyo is one.
This small Hindu temple, built in 9th century, is dedicated to Lord
Shiva. It faces east, is near the top of the mountain, northwest of
Yogyakarta, Java, Indonesia. It is one of the 100s Hindu and Buddhist
temples in the region. Inside Candi Selogriyo is space for Siva Linga
(now missing). Outside are statues carved of God Siva’s wife Parvati
(also known as Durga or Shakti) who stands with her feet touching Nandi,
God’s Siva’s son Ganesh who according to Hindu legend has an elephant
head, Agastya. A statue of Mahakala is also visible. Vandalism has
removed all the heads of the statues, as well caused damage to the
temple walls and interior.
The small Hindu structure located on a hill is not rich with
epic stories like Borobudur and Prambanan, but nestled in a graceful natural
environment it stimulates the feeling of peace for anyone visiting.
Looking to the west, you can see the majestic Mount Sumbing
shrouded in fine mist.
In the opposite direction, green fields spread out below
while the Merapi, Merbabu, Telomoyo, and Andong mountains tower in the
background.
Indeed, Selogriyo is located in a remote place difficult to
access. I had to travel the 28 kilometers between Borobudur and Kembang Kuning
village by motorcycle to get to the first checkpoint.
Passing a T-section from the main road in Kembang Kuning, I
entered a narrow paved way going upward.
Then, I found myself in a neighborhood that smelt like
cigarettes. The alleys were lined with latticework for drying tobacco. There
was a small parking lot.
To reach the location from the village, I was offered two
alternatives: walking or riding a motorcycle via a 2 km track. I chose the
former.
As I walked past the local houses, the track was getting
narrower and more slippery, which was understandable as it had just rained.
This path was thankfully not long, but after that I had to
be even more careful while setting foot on the unpaved lane that would bring me
to the temple.
On both sides were cliffs leading directly to the portions
of paddy fields.
This trip does not sound like an enjoyable one, but don’t be
discouraged. Believe me, your effort will be rewarded even as you are doing it.
The view and fresh air will instantly wipe out any feeling
of fatigue although you are not accustomed to walking, and wait till you find
the little streams of crystal-clear water.
I stopped once in a while to wash my face and to feel the
water flowing through my legs.
Landscapes covered with terraced fields were present
alongside every way I took, right below the hazy Condong, Giyanti, and Malang
hills.
As I went on, I was humbled by the elderly locals with a big
hauls of wood on their backs while carrying baskets of grass on their heads. At
some corners there, I also saw people processing charcoal.
At the end of the track, a gate welcomed visitors.
From here, the temple was only 160 steep stairs away.
When I got to the peak where the relatively tiny temple
stood, it looked sturdy in the middle of a tidily mown grass field.
In an architectural sense, Selogriyo can be said to be
modest.
The temple was built in 9 BC, facing eastwards, about 5
meters in length, width, and height, and no open veranda.
Most Indonesian temples have a veranda which allows people
to walk around the main building.
The shape of the temple resembled a fruit called amalaka ,
which is a characteristic of North Indian temples.
It had an empty chamber, the garbhagriha . Some say there
used to be a lingam and a yoni inside, representing Shiva Mahadeva and Goddess
Shakti respectively.
But I was told another version of the story regarding the
original function of this chamber.
“It is believed that in the past people would come here to
meditate,” said Fistarika Imam Setyawan, the local tour guide who took me
there.
“The history of the temple is not clearly known. The name
Selogriyo was given by the villagers. It means a stone house,” Fistarika
explained.
“They say a long time ago there were two bad men called
Nandiswara and Mahakala who failed in their attempt to murder a priest, who
turned out to be God Shiva. But Shiva forgave them and ordered them to guard
this temple.”
The four sides of the temple’s walls had five niches for
containing statues of gods’ manifestations.
The Durga Mahishasura, Ganesha, Agastya, Nandiswara, and
Mahakala statues were still there but without heads.
As with many other tourist sites in the country, the walls
unfortunately were not free from mischievous acts.
I could see silly writings carved on virtually every side. A
shame, indeed.
Many historical buildings that were, purportedly, holy
places have changed functions today.
In Selogriyo’s case, it is apparently seen by a lot of young
people as a beautiful and maybe romantic spot to spend the weekend with their
lover.
This makes sense of the “ Dilarang Berpacaran” (“Making Out
is Forbidden”) warning board inside the temple.
When I was there I saw a couple of boy and girl sitting
close to each other in a loving manner on one of the corners of the temple’s
yard.
It was not a strange scene for me actually as beautiful
places in the world always attract people to enjoy such romantic moments with
their partner there.
For me, however, this place alone was enough to make me fall
in love. With or without a partner.
Author
By : Putri Fitria